Sometimes people ask us, what good Sumi looks like before it becomes good...well here is a nice example. Our advice, never judge Kasane Sumi (Sumi which appears over Beni), always look at the Tsubo Sumi (Sumi which appears over the Shiroji). Here you can see a nice example of sumi over shiroji, where the sumi is dark, thick and rich, with a velvet-like shine to it. There is a large part of the sumi which is still to come through fully, but where the sumi has appeared over the shiroji already...it is of a very high quality...enjoy!
For ref : KoiBito Japan
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Koi Poo As Indicator
"Their is ways to tell if your fish is doing well and one way is looking at their poop. This chart is a general way of knowing how your fish is doing.
Long thin poop: Same color as there food but its thin and long. This normally caused by stress and not eating well. Fish should be closely watched.
White poop with air bubbles: There isnt any color to the poop and there is air trapped in the poop. This is signs of constipation, the food isnt being prossed in the fish. Fish should be not feed for three days and then feed nothing but peas for three days.
Thin white poop: There isnt any color to the poop. This is a sign of a bacterial infection inside of the fish. Fish should be placed on Anitoboitics and feed nothing but anitibotic foods.
Long clear (zig zag) with air bubbles: There isnt any color to the poop but it is long and with air bubbles in the poop. This is normally the fish reabsorbing eggs.
Long and thick poop: The poop is long but the same color as the food you feed them but it trails the fish. This fish is feed to much and is alittle consitapated. Fish shouldnt be feed for three days.
Short to medium poop: Good healthy poop should be the same color as what you have feed them. The poop should be short to medium length and not be trailing the fish for long lengths of time."
With no intention to maliciously infringe its copyright, I just wanna share this extract.
With limited experience in this hobby, maybe more ppl could share your experience in this matter?
Koi Diseases - Disorders of the Gill
1) Koi Gills The outer rim or edge of the gill seem to be pale, frayed or white.
Koi Gills The outer rim or edge of the gill seem to be pale, frayed or white.
If you look at the gills of your koi and they are nice and steak red but the outer "crescent moon" edge of the gill is pale or white, then something has "burned" the gills. Lots of retailers perform potassium dips on the fish before shipping. Formalin dips, a crashed pH, Ammonia burns and nitrite accumulations and more can cause caustic burns to the gill. A white edge to the gills is NOT a diagnosis of bacterial gill disease. Usually these fish DON'T need medications inasmuch as they need water testing, cool clear water, and time to heal from the burn.
•Usually no fish die unless in the first three days past the initial caustic trauma.
2) Koi Gills There are scalloped 'blow outs'' in the gill arches.
When you lift the gill cover and there are actual holes in the gill tissue, you have classic bacterial gill disease. I ALWAYS start these cases with a microscopic biopsy to rule out parasites, and then inject all fish with medications. If this is not feasible, feeding MediKoi can be helpful and effective in the fish that will still eat. Treating the koi in a holding tank with Ulcer Aid Rx can be very helpful as this medicine is safe and powerfully antibacterial. Never use Ulcer Aid Rx in the main tank.
•Fish dying off rapidly.
3) Koi Gills There are strands of white amongst the normal gill filaments.
This is a fairly treatable, but insidious (wide spread throughout the pond) form of bacterial gill disease, and is usually associated with parasitism. Almost every time I have seen THIS form of bacterial gill disease, it's been caused by Flukes or some other gill parasite. If the fish are not dying off rapidly, you can forget about Costia for the time being and use a combination of Salt and Aqua Prazi for good results if you can't do a scope biopsy.
Update: because of the over use or salt, there are now many “salt resistant” parasites. If the parasites do not respond to salt, the recommended treatment would be TERMINATE which is made to treat “salt resistant” parasites.
•Fish dying in dribbles and drabs.
4) Koi Gills The entire gill is pale, hamburgerlike and greenish.
When you see gills like this, the important thing is to examine the gills of any other fish in the tank which is important. The reason is that this is the worst presentation of bacterial gill disease. Like most forms of gill disease, it is highly morbid (widespread in the pond) and many normal-acting fish will have gill lesions. To put the reigns on this one, you need injections for all valuable fish, or Ulcer Aid Rx and medicated koi food.
•Usually Springtime, usually warmer water. Lots of fish dying.
5) Koi Gills Gills are just pale.
Just-pale gills are essentially normal insofar as they aren't missing chunks of tissue as above. The edge of the gill is usually homogenous with the rest of the gill, but the whole gill is simply pale. This is ALMOST ALWAYS the way gills look when there is poor water quality with concurrent gill infestation with parasites. I rarely see pale gills without a solid, dense population of gill flukes. The reason the gills are pale is because the gills are bleeding through thousands of tiny microvascular lesions created by the parasites. For this, expect to lose more fish, but bring it under control with salt and Medicated koi food. The real "edge" goes to those who can kick off the whole regimen with an injection of antibiotics for the affected fish.
Kanoko Koi
Kanoko is used for scales with a hi-colored centres.
Kanoko can be fund on Sanke, Showa, Kohaku and Asagi.
There are two "types" of Kanoko-pattern.
First these Koi who have a kanoko-pattern since birth, this koi can be very attractive.
The other posibility to have a Kanoko-pattern on a Koi, is fading Hi. Hi is fading from the edges to the centre, so 1 or 2 years, befor the complete disappearance of Hi, a Koi can be described as a Kanoko.
Koi from the first alternativ, can be expensiv, because good Kanoko as rare.
The problem, who knows for sure, if you see a Koi at your dealer, if Kanoko is fading Hi, or a good qualitiy rare "born-Kanoko".
ref : Nico (Koi Bito)
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